www.teflons-torque.com, Teflon's Torque, Tef's-tQ, Teflon-Mike's Web-Site

  HOME Learner-Riders Workshop General Scrap-Book Miscellaneous e-mail  

Turning a New Leaf!

A Step by Step guide to remove & Replace Series Land Rover Leaf Springs


An often asked question is 'How hard is it to replace my springs?'. Usually after the decision has been made to fit Parabolic Springs, or just because the old leaf springs are rusty, flat or cracked.

I did this job early on to Wheezil, and at the time hadn't really started Tef's-tQ, so I didn't take any pics or do a write up. This article started as a 'Step by step' set of instructions on the web-forum, and after it had dropped off the font pages was so often asked about and copied, it became my first 'how-to' for the site, and I started doing more, and photo-blogging all my bits of mechanical DIY!

Any way, I'm afraid that there are no pictures; I had asked if any-one following the instructions could take some pics for me, and I DID get sent some, but unfortunately they were lost in one of the hard drive failures I suffered a year or so ago; my apologies to who-ever offered contributions! If any-one could offer some pics though, would be nice to illustrate the sequence.

However, I did find an article, Land Rover 109 Safari Parabolic Springs on Mick Forster's web-site, where he has fitted up new parabolics to his CSW, which is quite useful, and has some pics too.

So, to answer the question.......

How Hard & Preparation

Swapping leaf-springs is not hugely complicated or difficult, but it isn't a small job. The main difficulties are generally in getting very old worn and rusty big lumps of metal apart, that really don't want to budge. Typically, with a bit of planning, and the parts and tools to hand, a relatively competent first timer should be able to do the whole job in a week end.

If you are on a budget, and hoping to re-use as many old parts as possible, well, the suspension gets a pounding and lives in a harsh environment. Everything down there rusts badly. It may be worth looking at your budget and rethinking if it is worth it. Cutting may be the only way to get a lot of parts apart. On which topic, you may like to see separate article, Spring Cleaning!

If you are starting out with new springs though, best advice is not to 'cheap skate'. Get new U-bolts, and new spring & shackle pins, new shackle plates, damper pins, retention washers and split pins, and probably new chassis bushes as well. A big pot of copper grease, will be handy too. As will an angle grinder and a plentiful supply of new cutting disks!

Also check your spanners; from memory the trusty 9/16"AF & 5/8"AF get a fair bit of use, but I think that some of the heads on the shackle & chassis pins are up near an inch, beyond the range of most tool kits; might be worth a check and if necessary a trip to your local motor-factors.

So, step by step, then.....

Step 1 - Gaining access

Step 2 - Remove Damper & U-Bolts

Step 3 - Dropping Spring

DON'T wade in and grind the heads off the chassis or shackle pins! That's the only means you have of twisting them, they go through 'captive' threads before the nut on the end.

Step 4 - Remove Chassis Bush

And that brings us to the end of the disassembly sequence for one corner, so go put the kettle on!

Step 5 - Re-Assembly

Step 6 - Fitting Chassis Bush

Step 7 - Fit Damper bottom end

Step 8 - Hanging Spring

Step 9 - Lining Up Axle

Step 10 - Repeat until all 4 corners done!

Settling In

and that's about it! Its not THAT horrible or onerous, but having parts, tools and or mates to hand can make the difference between a rewarding weekend, and "I just want to get rid of the bloody thing" type experience. Its all in the planning really.


A few comments on the Forum's suggest some common gripes, complaints or concerns, one of which is the 'tilt' or riding funny, mentioned in step 12 'settling in'. BUT; there have been a few cases of people getting the springs in the wrong place.

Most springs are sold as pairs; fronts and rears not being the same; but in some cases the springs are also 'handed' and need to be fitted to the correct side of the car. They are usually marked LH (Left Hand side) or RH (Right hand Side). Some springs are also directional and will be marked with an arrow pointing at the end that has to be the 'nose' and point forwards.

A lot of 'problems' are often solved by checking that the springs are on the right side and that they are all 'settled', but severe listing or weird riding can point to the wrong springs having been supplied or fitted.

The only other querulous comment I have is that when I did Wheezil, the location pips on the spring were too big to go in the boss on the axle. I thought this odd, and a 'one-off', but apparently a number of people have experienced the same; I simply filed the pip a bit smaller, carefully with a hand file!


  HOME Learner-Riders Workshop General Scrap-Book Miscellaneous e-mail  

Hit Counter
stats counter

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +