Irene Cara 1981! Jeez. Almost embarrassed I KNOW that! HOWEVER…. We have a bare frame. Well almost. Still has the footpegs and side stand on it, but they’ll come off soon enough. BECOUSE, I am reconsidering ‘The Plan’ vis the wire brushes, and smoothrite!
Back in 1985, when I painted the Montesa, I forgot; a) it’s a much simpler ‘twin-shock’ structure, b) it’s a pure comper, with bog all bracketry for equipment, street-gear or even bodywork! Tank/Seat and side-panels on the Cota are a single fibre glass ‘unit’ attached with one pin through the head stock, and two rubber straps to hooks on the frame, just above the foot-pegs. c) I DIDN’T use wire brushes to trip it! Worked part time as a Sand-Blaster. Took it to the yard and blasted it, when I had to clean down and ‘purge’ the equipment at the end of a day!
SO! I MIGHT just get the thing sand-blasted and powder coated after all. Looking at it; £50 for the frame; if I don’t go ‘silly’ and just get the ‘black bits’; swing arm; fork yokes, foot-pegs, side stand; and brake pedal ‘done’; might get away with under £100. Adds £80 to the build bill, and steps away from this ‘pocket money’ notion, BUT…. Sick & TIRED of picking bits of rotary wire brush out my cloths, hair, skin! And there’s NO WAY, I could get into the shock tube to get rid of the rust and crud in there!
ANYWAY, that’s the thought for the day; meanwhile, progress, and how we got to this stage!
Donna, had a go at tackling the front wheel with sand paper and solvol for me. Rim came up nice, but spokes hard work, and have flash rusted over night! Dog looks on. Great watch-dog out ‘Bear’….. tells us the time….. DINNER time!
Meanwhile I decided to strip off the handle-bars, and before dropping the fork yokes, having a crack at them with the rotary-wire, rather than trying to hold them under my foot and chewing up my shoes!
Top yoke off. Nibbed back some of the paint on the frame around the head-stock while I was at it, wondering gow it would come up. First ‘sort’ if inkling I would struggle round all that bracketry!
masked a square off over the frame number so I didn’t make it illegible with paint, and slapped some smoothrite over metal I’d exposed. It did not look too wonderful, so nibbed it back a bit for a second coat… before re- considering the powder coat idea, again!
Without the front end, it was getting a bit tail heavy and tipping on the stand… so I removed rear wheel.
Discovered two things; first non functioning rear brake would not be helped any by the friction material having fallen off the frigging shoe! Second, they appear identical width, diameter and peg pattern to the ones in the front. Pretty sure that rear brake is DT-MX, so even if the front is unusual, two pairs of DT-MX rear shoes ought to sort me!
Wanted to get at some stubborn screws underneath….. couldn’t do THIS with a four stroke! Well… you COULD.. but all the engine oil would seep past the piston rings!
Them two rusty allen screws for the number plate. CANT have been undone for MANY MANY years! Ended up drilling off the heads. Have now got to get the studs out of the frame; this does NOT look like a ‘nice’ job!
OK, mudguard and lamp ‘off’ lets poke at some of the much around the engine and swing arm bolts, see what needs to be undone!
MONSTER shocks on these things; and Decarbon were the OE fit!
Curiousely little travel though for a shock so long, and the ‘jack up’ kit is that bit of hex bar moving the eye further away from the damper body; moves the effective mounting point to increase ground clearance, but doesn’t increase travel any.
Back the right way up, and looking some-what more ‘bare’ time to lift the motor out.
Had to remove generator / sprocket cover to get at one of the engine bolts. IT HAS POINTS! That dates the motor a bit. Later models I believe had CDi ignition. But of rust in there. So, adding to the list; motor may get a tad more attension than I had hoped. Will have to invest in flywheel puller to pull the rotor off, then I can clean it all up, and as course, replace points and condenser…. Unless any-one can suggest cheap / easy conversion to 12v generator & possibly CDi ignition?
Undo three bolts, give a little wiggle with a tyre lever, twist, and engine lifts straight out, without having to be a contortionist. I DO like Yamaha mechanics! Had forgotten how ‘simple’ they tend to make things! And that’s about IT.
Progress to-date, apart from stripping some odds and sods off the frame. IF I am going to have this thing blasted and coated though; need to sort a few bits, before I can drop it in. Mainly seized screws. Already noted the two mudguard screws in rear frame stay; but there is also one in the upper fork yoke, and another in the bash-plate mounting, and I have yet to go over ‘carefully’ looking for any more.
Right, thgese Q’s come up so often on the forum, I think at SOME point I ought to compile a definitive ‘how2’ for the problem, with all the varying methods, starting with the mildest, complete with photo’s. Don’t have a full suite yet, but faced with stubborn screw on the bash plate; thought I’d try catch it in camera while I had the opportunity; SO, here goes. You have a stubborn screw. You have attempted to remove it with a screwdriver, and it’s rounded out. Some-one helpfully tells you all about the different ‘tip-forms’ for cross head screws, probably even posted a chart explaining them all, and yes, quite possibly, you have used the wrong screwdriver… OR could just be a stubborn fuckwitty of a scre you are dealing with. So, first line of attack; before doing anything drastic or resorting to power tools, the humble Impact driver, method.
FIRST make sure you can see the feckker you want to undo! Clean up around it, over it, and IN it.
Damned difficult to undo bolts or screws if you cant find them! So clean first. In fact do this BEFORE you even try the regular screw driver!
Then CLEAN out the head form, with something pokie. You’re never goung to get a screwdriver tip to grip the slot well, if the point is lifted up and holding the tip half out the slots, because its full of crud.
Different screw, but I got a better pic of this one, and the bit you will ‘LIKE’! Hit the fekker with a hammer! But CAREFULLY, and this is actually the clever bit! You use the ball end of your hammer, and you tap itfrom the edge of the screw topwards the centre, and try and ‘peen’ the metal around the slot BACK INTO THE HOLE, closing it up. Reason your scvrewdriver slipped and chewed was because the slot deformed; so what you want to do, is deform it back again! Hammer the metal that was bent out by the screwdriver, back in, to tighten up the slot!
You can now take the ‘bit’ from the impact driver and hammer it into the screw head, reforming a tight slot, and hopefully getting a good ‘bite’ on the screw. If not repeat the peening and bit hammering until you do.
You may now put the impact driver carefully over the impact driver ‘bit’, and then, SMACK THE SHIT out of it with the hammer….. WARNING! Keep good hold of the impact driver body and hamer, and FINGERs out of the gap between them! Or it WILL hurt! (I am holding hammer and impact driver in the pic with one hand, for demonstration purposes only, because the other hand was holding the camera!)
Impact driver applies both torsional and axial ‘shock’ loading onto the thread and about three in four stubborn fuckwit fasteners submit to it, and you can just wind them out like you would with a regular screw driver. It’s a REALLY great tool to have in the arsenal, and ought be your first line of attack.
Plus Gas, is another; Note PLUS-GAS a proper ‘penatrating oil’ that soaks and lubricates threads where they are sized. NOT WD-FUGGING-40, which is a water dispersant for getting rid of moisture on damp electrics, NOT a penetrating oil!
3in1 oil is a better bet than WD40! But that’s a poor substitute for Plus Gas. Plus-Gas, however, is ‘best’ given time to penetrate the threads by capiliary action; ie ‘soak in’. If your fastener doesn’t come undone straight away, applying penetrating oil, and leaving it a few days, can often work marvels; but few of us have such patience. I do know people that do, and who restore rusty old BSA’s and the like saving every original screw and washer; but they tend to take as long to get them all out as it took for the bike to get that rusty to begin with!
Up to you if you want to use a penetrating oil and leave over night, or go straight in with an impact driver, really. I tend to go in with the impact driver, and as said three times out of four, does the trick. If it doesn’t, 50/50 whether penetrating oil would have done anything anyway. But I sometimes, if it’s the end of the day, or I can find something else to do, give screw that hasn’t submitted to Impact Driver, a squib of penetrating oil, leave it and come back; see if it comes out with a screwdriver the next day (usually not) then have another crack with the Impact Driver. Seem to find few stubborn screws that DO respond to penetrating oil + Impact wrench, but worth a go before bringing in heavy, destructive artillery! WHICH I shall leave for future features!