Christmas is OVER
Nearly three months! The project hasn't entirely stood still, but Autumn is always busy and culminating in Christmas, so I haven't had MUCH chance to get out and do very much. But I have been scouring for parts needed and keeping my eye out for 'bargains'.
One such to come along was a Rev-Counter to match the Chrome Speedo. Returning the thing to street-spec, a useful addition that provides the required idiot lights for Hi-Beam and indicators.
These are from the earlier Twin-Shock bike mine was originally, and are rarer than the black case ones fitted to the MX models, but as they go for around £80 a pair with bracket... I thought that £15 delivered was rather good for this one, to match the speedo. Just need to make something to mount them on, so a bit of 3mm ali-plate was also procured off e-bay.
Yambits, when I came to order it, had run out of fuel taps. This is anoying. That was stopping me get to grips with getting the bike to 'run' properly. But an order was placed anyway:
Battery, at the back with its acid pack, is a YB3lB, for a DT125LC... same pohysical dimensions as the 6v DT-MX item, but 12v! I am now committed to the 12v conversion, and if I cant get the thing to 'charge', from what I THINK I have identified now as the DT100 points ignition magneto.... well, I will have to run it 'total loss' until I can sort out something else!
TINY bludy thing it is, though! Really 'cute'. Barely any bigger than a pack of fags!Just for comparison, a CB750 battery, and a CB125 battery behind it. Dinky little thing isn't it!Battery strap - appears too short; think it must be for the later square swingarm MX... will be remidied with cable ties I think!
Pair of pillion foot-pegs... not really essential; but I was telling Snowie the other night about when I was 18 and DIDN'T buy a Bimota I was offered very 'cheap'.. great bike and would have been worth a fortune now, if I had managed not to stack it... but at the time, and still; I couldn't wrap my head around a bike SO single minded it can only carry one person.
Tacho-Cable, for the newly aquired Rev-Counter; AND a front brake stop-lamp switch. Doesn't REALLY have to have one of these, but, bikes being used on modern roads, and like the indicators; I think a good idea.
All good stuff, but none of it lets me 'get on' with very much... well apart from the pillion pegs that are now screwed into the swing arm!
But, postman called this morning and delivered some electrical bits, and Decals, courtesy of BCF-Member Corf:
A big 'Thanks' yet again. ever give him nice easy 'off the shelf' jobs; always something a bit more challenging! Chap has come through, again; making these decals from scratch, in a very short space of time, exactly as hoped. Hopefully be able to put up pics of them going on, and the bike wearing them fairly soon.
A new ignition switch; will let me get on with wrapping my head around making up the dash-panel.
The ubiqueteouse Cyclone talking alarm.
As the bike had no ignition switch, and bog all wiring and I am scratch building my own 'loom', I pondered with the idea of using the 'Key-Less' start feature of the alarm instead of an ignition barel. But end of the day; I dont have THAT much confidence in the reliability of the alarm, and on a TWOCker magnet dirt bike, with drum brakes, think the more security I can stick on the better!
Alarm wont stop any-one peculiarly deturmined to have it; but flashing lights and claxon should at least keep the kids from 'fiddling'.
Cyclone is not the most sophisticated alarm on the market; but it is probably one of the cheapest at £25 delivered, and they are fairly straight forward to wire; this being the third I have put on a bike.
THIS though was the 'exiting' bit to arrive; a pair of Xenon HID lamps.
The Yamaha DT125MX was not wonderfully endowed with great lighting. Original '78 Road test rated it 'Adequate', and the 6v direct system has never got 'better'!
Have commented to a couple of people looking to upgrade 6v Direct lighting on old commuters that its a difficult job; everything is standardised on 12v these days, but the main problem is simply that the generators don't bung out enough amps to do much, and so to make sure that the stock set up is good and you aren't loosing volts through corroded wires or furred up connectors, make sure that the reflector has good silvering and the lens is clean, and learn to ride predicatively within what the lamp will show.
And TBH, I could have followed my own advice; 12v conversion wasn't necessarily looking for a better headlamp... but what the heck!
Main thing is, that generator output; headlamp shell I have, presumably from the twin-shock DT125E, says 25W/25W on it! Geez! Thats barely more powerful than a stop lamp bulb! Book says that the DT-MX ought to have a 35w/35w... and guess what? These HID's draw 35W! And bung out 3x the light of a 55w Halogen, where I would have had to find a non standard 35W halogen or an even less common 35W tungsten!
THIS was why I wanted to convert to 12v... standardisation. Opens the door to using more available and often 'better' components.
Had a fiddle with it to see where the various 'bits' can go, but as yet cant really go much further, as I am waiting for a 5 1/2" headlamp lens/reflector to arrive for it to go in. This ought to fit straight into the original Yamaha headlamp shell, and allow the H4 HID to be fitted.
Probably wont be room for much ELSE inside that headlamp shell, and I will probably be putting the ballast box on the underside of the dash panel; but we'll see.
And, No, I dont need 'both' bulbs. The other will be going onto Donna's 'Pup'.
Only other thing is that they are proper Hi/Lo HID bulbs, with a little solenoid that moves the actual bulb in its mount when you switch between Dip and Main beam. £40 for the pair is pretty good for this type, as far as I can tell. Cheap ones have a fixed Discharge tube and use a conventional shrouded tungsten filament for the 'dip' beam, so are only HID on 'main' beam.
Last thing to be acquired, and not very exiting; a roll of 6mm ID fish-tank hose, for me to try and make up and plumb in an oil reservoir for the auto-lube system.
Other than that, I am awaiting the arival of the LED Indicator bulbs to go in the indicator's I aquired back in the summer; an electronic flasher unit to make them blink; a connector for the headlamp bulb, and a big parcel of assorted LED's and resistors to make up the idiot lamps and back-lights and 'stuff'.
So, there you have it. Progress has been happening, and most of it me pouring over wiring diagrams, either out of the book, or one's I have created, working out what to 'do' with the wrigglies; and hunting out the bits I need.
STARTING to come together and I have some materials to get things moving again, so watch this space for updates.
Sunday 15 January 2012
Wha-Hooo! PRETTY BITS!
Snowie, will soon be riding a STOLEN motorcycle! She STOLE the engine I had built for the next Super-Dream, and put it in her bike, NOW she's stealing bits for the DT to sort her headlamp! Pah! You can take the Girl out of Braunstone, but CAN you take the Braunstone out of the girl?! (See her latest addition to 'The Pup-Project'!). Anyway; between having my attentions diverted, being made an accomplice after the fact, helping her FIT her stolen parts....I have got a few bit's 'done' to the DT this week-end.
The New Headlamp Lens arrived:
Fits the original head-lamp shell perfectly. Side by side with the 'old' lense, gives you an idea of what I was saying about upgrading head-lamps on old bikes. That 'old' lense doesn't look too bad, its silvering is 'Ok' and the lense is fairly good, but you can see how it has dulled and yellowed over the years compared to the bright silvering and chrystal clear glass of the new one...
I wonder how many people upgrade head-lamp bulbs and waste most of the extra light fighting through such a filter... anyway, on with some WORK!
The side-panels, after I pulled them off the top shelf, dusted them and cleaned them; I decided could do with another coat of yellow... when that had hardened off, time to fit these Decals.
If you haven't seen this done before in another thread; then you need a squirty bottle full of water or dilute washing up liquid & water, couple of clean cloths, preferable lint free; the part you want to attach decal to, the decal, a steady hand and careful 'eye'.
Then, carefully peel the backing paper off the transfer, and then soak the surface of the part with the soap solution, and lay the decal onto the part.
At this stage the decal can be moved around a little to get it aligned as you want it, on the water, then you rub the transfer down to get the air bubble's out and get it to stick. Work gently at this stage and if it's not 'quite' right you can with more water lift it a little and re-align.
Once rubbed down, the fronting film can be CAREFULLY peeled away. Use more water; the decal is likely to 'lift' a little as you peel so keep dabbing it down.
Once the fronting is removed, more water, and the transfer can be rubbed down getting rid of any little bubbles, until you are happy, then the part mopped dry.
Repeat for as many Decals as you want to apply! Tank I decided needed another coat or two of yellow
Curve of the tank is a bit deceptive and this one took a bit of fiddling to get straight and bubble free, but perseverance got there in the end.
Not quite finished yet, want to laquer them in, but want to use two-pack for the tank, as the 'petrol proof' isn't proving SO petrol proof! But cant resist a trial fit to see the finished effect!
JUST a quick reminder of what it looked like to begin with:-
Then and now.